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Maltese Musings #4 – For the Love of Rocks
Aside from the beauty of the island and weather, Malta also has a rich history to explore. And so, spurred on by Theresa (to whom “chivvying along” is a way of life), we went out to see how much of it we could find.
What we found were, on the whole, rocks.
Now, to be fair to Hagar Qim, it’s more a case of lousy timing on our part that it’s such a crushing disappointment. Years ago this temple complex was apparently filled with relics and statues and you could wander all round it. Currently, however, it’s a building site, two accessible chambers and an abundance of builder’s sand.
This is due to the building of a visitors centre to house all the relics and so on, but, at present, for €7 a head, the sight of what effectively amounts to ancient and modern rubble isn’t really worth a two-hour round trip. And it wasn’t just our group that thought this, either.
Similarly the Roman Domus outside Mdina was ever so slightly underwhelming. A room detailing Roman occupancy of the island was followed immediately by a room containing a couple of mosaics in various states of repair. And then you came to a balcony overlooking… a field of rocks. No attempt was made to even contextualize said rocks, mind you – there was no “that bit over there we think may have been the privy” for example – they were just there.
Fishbourne it wasn’t.
Thankfully it wasn’t all quite so apathetic. Aside from a smattering of cathedrals (of which more later) St. Paul’s Catacombs at Mdina were a particular highlight. I mean, I like graveyards and churches and mausoleums etc so I naturally leapt at the chance to hand over money and see a few new graves.
And very impressive and well-preserved they were too. They were a little cramped admittedly, but lets face it the intended occupants weren’t going to need much in the way of free space. So yes, all very catacomby and atmospheric.
Except… well… there was a guide in the form of an audio handset available, and – as much as I enjoyed it – I’m not sure that it didn’t take the edge off things a bit.
In it, a lady whose voice was somewhat reminiscent of Fenella Fielding spoke in a bustily sultry manner as the character of a Roman ghost called “Valeria”. And I’m afraid that after an hour of barely suppressed giggles, when she finally breathed “I will whisper my final words in your ear: farewell!” I found myself yelping and running for the exit gasping for air.
I loved it so much I want to go again. (Assuming I can take an inhaler next time.)
Posted on October 26, 2008 | Filed Under Holiday Excess
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